Paris – Dubrovnik (part 2)

First part is here

The mornings and sometimes afternoons we spent on the beach. It was a pebble beach and I have noticed that all the beach goers there belonged to two categories: those who had a water shoes and those who had not. You could recognize the later by their peculiar walk.
The water there was cool, turquoise and incredibly clear (as everywhere in Dubrovnik, even in the harbor), a lovely cliff, covered with pine trees raised on one side of the beach. The locals liked to come there for the morning swim and sunbathing before arriving of the tourists, and in the evenings there was a water polo game.

Besides laying on the beach and sitting in the restaurants, we have walked a lot around the Old City and got to know it inside out. We walked through some lovely labyrinths of narrow streets, climbing high up. It was quiet there, there were no shops, no people, inviting you to take kayaking trips, just sunlit stone walls, deep shadows, white sheets blowing in the wind – just normal everyday life.

One-half of one day we dedicated to Lokrum Island, where you can get by boat, departing Old City harbor every 15 minutes. The island is very close to Dubrovnik and boats arrive full all the time, but the island is big and after stepping off the boat, people disperse in different directions, so you can walk into the forest and meet nobody on the path. The dry pine needles cover the ground and give away a thick scent, the cicadas, chirping solitary in Old City,  here, on the island, join in the choirs and reach an incredible power. There were a Benedictine monastery, a botanical garden, and nice beaches, where we have spent a few tranquil hours.

 

Now, since I have mentioned tranquility… This guy on the photo next to a 15th-century fountain – a permanent feature of square Paskoja Milicevica. Although looking very authentic and ready for the picture, he played only two notes. No exaggeration here and no joke, literally: TWO NOTES. I was waiting for a friend in the shade of the fountain and after being there for twenty minutes I was ripe for a homicide. Or, at least, pay him to stop (maybe that is how he makes his money)?

In spite of doing not very much, I have many small, but beautiful moments, which we have experience in Dubrovnik, and which are strung together like little pearls in my memory. The moments, like hand feeding peacocks on the island; dancing in passing on the old fountain square, with the music of life jazz musicians playing Louis Armstrong in the outdoor cafe; looking down from the road at the magnificent night Adriatic Sea with a bright full moon-glade; sitting down in a shade, in the monastery courtyard, after walking in the hot sun of the afternoon; first sip of wine in anticipation of a good dinner…

 

And what is important, is not how much you did, but how well you will remember it.

 

 

 

 

Some places among the trials:

“Konobo Pupo” – simple and quite tasty dishes (good squid (eaten 3 times)).

“Zuzori” – more on the expensive side, smaller portions, beautifully presented, excellent fish fillet and steak.

“Stara Loza” – named after the 250-year-old vine, growing at the side of the wall, excellent gazpacho and grilled squid (again), gorgeous setting.

“The Sesame Tavern” – a good cool terrace with ceiling fans, perfect for lunch, great cold cucumber soup and beef steak, local style.

“ Soul Cafe”– a perfect little place for the drinks after dinner, hidden in a very narrow street. They have a collection of lovely Croatian brandies with different flavors and in the evenings there is a very good guitarist, playing relaxing music.

The errors:

The same “Sesame Tavern”,  but at the breakfast time. It seems like in the mornings the place is run by a different team-moody, inattentive and food is not that good. So, stick to lunch there.

“Rosario” – to be fair here, I think, the choice of dishes was to blame, my monkfish stew, for instance, was very closely resembling a taste of sardines in a tomato sauce. Not good for a pricey meal. The setting is very beautiful, though.

Bakery “Klas” on the main road leading to Old City. It is open 24 hours a day and a lot of tourists buying pastries there, but the stuff they sell is not that good as they are not trying very hard.
If you walk closer to the city, there will be little bakeries, where you can get  lovely local bureks with meat or cheese – much better and tastier.

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